on the road starting in Bora Bora
When I was 19, I worked with Ludmilla Logan of Ameican Orient Travel in San Francisco. She was an amazing person: Spoke fluent Russian, English, French, Japanese and was learning German.
Lala led tours to Japan, China, Thailand and to Kuala Lumpur (at a time when that area was high risk for travellers). Her travelling companion was extremely wealthy (owned a shipping company, as I remember). They could go anywhere in the world and did, but every single year they went back to Bora Bora. So, since age 19, it has been my dream to go to Tahiti . . . and to Japan because I never got there either during my two years with the travel company.
When I took a buyout from the S.F. Chronicle in 2002 (I think it was 2002), I put a chunk into real estate (all of which is now upside down), and asked my daughter: "Do you want money for college, a car, or a few months on the road starting in Tahiti and ending in Japan."
Smart young lady: Travel was her answer, along with her choices of countries to visit. So our two month road trip was Tahiti (Bora Bora and Moorea); Roratonga, Cook Islands; Devonport, New Zealand; from Brisbane to Port Douglas Australia; up and down the Chao Praya River in Thailand, and then to Phuket and Ko Pi Pi in Thailand; topped by two weeks in Japan. (Bless The Chronicle. We did send a "thank you" note from Bora Bora.)
Forbes Magazine nominated the Fiji Islands as the world's most beautiful touchdown. It is definitely one of them, but few landings can rival flying into French Polynesia. Fiji, like the islands of French Polynesia, has a fragile ecosystem and insufficient water, so development is minimal and visitors are blissfully limited, which, of course is why these trips can be so expensive. However, French Polynesia is one of the most exquisite places on this planet.
French Polynesia must have been the inspiration for that song that has the line, "Just another day in Paradise."
Friends just asked what my favorite trip was. While I love going anywhere even if it's only a day trip a few miles from home, this two-month road trip starting in Bora Bora tops it all.
I believe Tahiti is the most beautiful place I've ever seen and the most exquisite waters I've ever been in -- maybe with the exception of Jamaica. We swam with pink reef sharks and bat rays. We also swam among lavender coral. It wasn't only the clarity and color of the tropical warm waters, it was also because it is such a rare place to go. I often jokingly say that more people have probably been to the moon than to Tahiti.
Because it is expensive, and because we SO wanted to stay in an over-the-water bungalow, we opted for one in Moorea rather than Bora Bora. One of the reasons why French Polynesia is so expensive is because of water conservation—they do not have sufficient water for expansion, thank God; it amounts to supply and demand. We were fortunate as we had an end unit (image above left). The back deck had steps leading right into tropical waters in a bay protected by a surrounding reef.
We
travel extremely light, often with Kipling Luggage similar to the one on the left (which comes in a variety of colors, including basic black).
We
still travel with the same size bags, but because airlines are even
further narrowing their aisles (even as people get bigger!), we are
now opting for luggage that allows a sideways pull.
If you travel to shop, Tahiti isn't really the place to go . . . perhaps in Papeete, but we didn't go there as this trip was about a tropical vacation. We did buy a couple of pareaus (those colorful large pieces of cloth that can be wrapped in SO many styles, including skirts over bathing suits that suffice as evening wear in Tahiti), but that's about all.
Flying into Bora Bora is dramatic. Actually, I've never experienced anything like it. The plane heads for a narrow motu set between the dark bluer outer ocean and the turquoise lagoon. From there, a 20 minute boat ride takes you from landing strip to Vaitape and provides a good introduction to the island as the ride covers most of the western side of the island.
We visited Tahiti in May and found the weather to be perfect: light refreshing winds, occasional (but minimal) clouds, no rain, not too hot.
Because the islands are actually volcanic, there's not much in the way of wildlife . . . a number of exotic birds (which are protected by the government), and now-wild pigs (such as that road hog above left). Most of the land animals were brought in by sailors. However, the marine life is exquisite and the landscapes other-worldly.
We did little on Bora Bora . . . a Polynesian dinner with a fire dance, which was enjoyable but not "great" as "great" goes. We rented a little car and drove around the island, which only takes a few hours even going slowly.
In Moorea, we joined a few of the day trips, most notably swimming with pink reef sharks (quite small, being fed by hand from the guides, still very scary), and with sting rays, which are not captive but are extremely curious. They are so accustomed to frequent groups immersing themselves into their tropical waters, that they come right up to you. One young woman on our tour caught their attention for some reason and they were actually going up to her and running the bottom part of their "wing" along her skin. Their "wings" feel like silk. (While kayaking in Tomales Bay, rays have come up to the kayak and run their wings along the boat . . . I think it's from curiosity and that is how they "observe.") The tour stopped at a motu for more snorkeling and a superb lunch.
Tahiti Is Closer Than You Think
Flight time to Tahiti from Los Angeles is under 8 hours and just over 12 hours from New York. It seems so far away -- and it is psychologically, which, of course, is the point -- but French Polynesia is in the same time zone as Hawaii. It's a relatively easy flight from Los Angeles and a great way to pass the time inflight is by taking along Albums, Video Games, Audiobooks on iTunes, apps from the App Store (which includes things like solitare which easily consumes time during waits and on flights.UNSPOILED AND UNCROWDED
The islands in French Polynesia -- Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, and Huahine -- have fewer visitors in a full year than Hawaii does in ten days. I once told a couple that I'm sure more people have landed on the moon than have been to Tahiti. The resorts and cruise ships are smaller and perfectly suited for incentive groups, conferences, and executive meetings. Bora Bora is beyond belief. We saw photographs through the years, but nothing prepares one for this beauty. It exceeds any picture in anyone’s mind.OVER-THE-WATER BUNGALOWS
Staying in an overwater bungalow, suite, or villa is the ultimate reward. Many units feature private outdoor areas with a ladder to the water, glass floors, pools, and gardens. New and renovated four-and five-star resorts feature full-service Polynesian spas plus a wide range of options.At one time we thought these over-the-water bungalows were the only ones in the world. While that turns out to be untrue, these are unique because of the beauty of the surroundings. (Did you know that ancient Romans had bungalows built out over the Mediterranean from which they would fish without leaving their homes?)
Changes in Latitude, Changes in Attitude