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Surf Hawaii.
Surfing bears.
Surfing Japanese style.
Surfing Hawaii.
Poster in surfing shop window.

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Snowboarding to Nirvana by Frederick Lenz.

The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding . . . if you're out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don't land on soft snow. It's usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you're tumbling underwater.

--Frederick Lenz
Snowboarding to Nirvana

Coffees of Hawaii

Explore. Discover. Escape.

Before Leaving Home . . .

THE BEST TRAVEL GUIDES

Book Tours, Activities, Transfers
More than 5,500 tours and activities in more than 400 destinations around the globe

James A. Michener, Hawaii.
Click for a selection of books, maps and travel guides to Hawaii, including
James Michener's novel of Hawaii

Hawaii by James Michener.
Michener's novel is excellent, if sometimes wordy, (written in 1959 when we all had more time to read) of the growth of Hawaii from its undersea birth to the coming of people from Polynesia, Europe, the Americas, Japan, China, etc.

Kelea, the Surf Rider, a Romance of Pagan Hawaii.
Kelea, the Surf-Rider:
A Romance of Pagan Hawaii
Alexander Stevenson Twombly

Antiquarian publication.

North Shore Chronicles Big Wave Surfing in Hawaii.

In surfing, coming to terms with death -- or at least the possibility -- is an ongoing crisis in big waves. The set is building outside, and it's so beautiful, aesthetically. People are watching in awe from the beach: the blue water, the stiff offshore winds, the 40-foot walls charging in from the open ocean. If you're out there with nothing but your body, your wits and a surfboard, that set can be your coffin.

--Bruce Jenkins
North Shore Chronicles

Books on Ocean Kayaking including this by John Dowd.
A Selection of Books About
Ocean Kayaking

Hawaii: Dawn Patrol

° Hawaii ° Kauai ° Maui ° Oahu
° Holidays in Hawaii ° Hilton Hawaiian Village
° Dawn Patrol ° The Seahorse Farm ° Our Environment
° The Maritime Heritage Project: Hawaii

An article in the Hilton Hawaiian Village's "Experience" by Tom Hanley elaborates on the Dawn Patrol, surfers who start their Hilton Hawaiian Village on Waikiki.day in the pre-dawn hours off Waikiki. I often wake with first light and because of the view from my room (right), I wandered onto the deck and could make out specks in the dark water; they were obviously surfers, but why so early?

Hanley's article covers the Dawn Patrol, a pre-work group of hundreds of individuals that begin their day on the water. He writes:

Surfers may or may not have shaken the image of the sixties 'surf rat, the scruffy, jobless die-hard beach bum; but for most, it's far from the reality these days. The dawn patrol surfers are primarily middle-aged, some even retired, and yes mom; we do have jobs. There are cookie bakers out there, boat captains, longshoremen, roofers, teachers, bankers, surfboard shop owners, and even magazine art directors. We work, just like you. . .

The difference, perhaps, is their conversation around thewater cooler, which includes not only talk about being slammed by waves, but also about jumping whales, dolphins or sea turtles by the hundreds.

From years of ocean kayaking around the clock, I know first hand the draw of the water and its colors in all light. That is part of their draw; every sunrise is different and every sunset is different. I have kayaked in the wake of the moon on San Francisco Bay . . . I wrote of that as "padding the milky way." This is the same reason that these pre-dawn surfers are out there, and, like kayakers, they are out before work and after work. Most sports help with psychological balance and all water sports have the added benefit of Negative Ions negative ions, which create positive waves.

Negative ions are odorless, tasteless, and invisible molecules that we inhale in abundance in certain environments. Think mountains, waterfalls, and beaches. Once they reach our bloodstream, negative ions are believed to produce biochemical reactions that increase levels of the mood chemical serotonin, helping to alleviate depression, relieve stress, and boost our daytime energy.

Ions are molecules that have gained or lost an electrical charge. They are created in nature as air molecules break apart due to sunlight, radiation, and moving air and water. Part of the euphoria is simply being around natural settings away from the normal pressures of home and work, the air circulating in the mountains and the beach is said to contain tens of thousands of negative ions -- Much more than the average home or office building, which contain dozens or hundreds, and many register a flat zero.

"The action of the pounding surf creates negative air ions and we also see it immediately after spring thunderstorms when people report lightened moods," says ion researcher Michael Terman, PhD, of Columbia University in New York.

In fact, Columbia University studies of people with winter and chronic depression show that negative ion generators relieve depression as much as antidepressants. "The best part is that there are relatively no side effects, but we still need to figure out appropriate doses and which people it works best on," he says.

Champion surfer.The 40th International Surfing Competition at Turtle Bay on the North Shore was also underway. Kelly Slater (right from a poster in a shop window) was again among the competitors.

The waves are 10-30 feet high during winter and this is considered the most dynamic competition in the world. As such, of course, it draws the best competitors in the world.

Because my trip was last minute, I didn't see as much as I would have liked of the competition and have a feeling this is going on my "annual visit to Hawaii" list of things to do.

Learning to surf is exhilarating. It is also potentially dangerous as waves of any size are incredibly powerful. It's one of those fine sports that gives you an advantage if you take lessons from qualified professionals. You will be dealing with waves -- in Hawaii, they could be Big Waves -- although some of the world's largest are at Maverick Beach in Half Moon Bay south of San Francisco where an annual "Big Wave Surfing Competition" is held; it's $150,000 purse is the largest prize for any big wave competition.

The most dangerous I've encountered would be the reverse waves off the shores of Costa Rica. They weren't particularly huge, but the path was unexpected. You will also be dealing with rips, rocks, stinging fish, rogue waves, hitting the sand and sharks in many waters (California, Australia . . . )

Mavericks 2010 Contestants